The Milaya Project
An organisation that is working hard to prevent the loss of cultural heritage among displaced communities is The Milaya Project, a non-profit founded by Nora Lorek and Nina Strochlic after a visit to Bidibidi - one of the largest refugee settlements in the world.
Image by Nora Lorek
The Civil War in South Sudan has displaced more than 2 million people, the overwhelming majority of whom are women and children. Many of those displaced by the conflict in South Sudan reside in Uganda in the Bidbidi settlement. When Nora Lorek visited Bidibidi for National Geographic she asked many of the refugees what they had brought with them when they fled their homes, the most common answer was a beautifully embroidered bedsheet, called a milaya. These embroidered sheets that embody traditional techniques passed down from generation to generation and were once used for celebrations and dowries, have since become a tangible embodiment of home for many of the refugees in Bidibidi, who used them to carry their clothes and remaining possessions.
The Milaya Project supports South Sudanese women in continuing to make milayas that they can sell to international customers to keep the traditional artform alive. The organisation provides sustainable livelihood opportunities, connecting the women with a global market of customers whilst also helping the South Sudanese community to retain their traditional embroidery skills and maintain their cultural heritage.
A conversation with Nina Lorek invites us to understand why this preservation of traditional craft is so important.
Sacha
With the rising displacement of refugees, there is a serious threat to diverse traditions, practices and cultural heritage that is rarely mentioned as a consequence of the refugee crisis. Could you explain the importance of preserving these traditional craft techniques, and the importance of supporting and empowering refugee communities to continue their diverse practices and traditions?
Nina
When South Sudanese refugees fled into Uganda they continued making their traditional embroidered bed sheets called milayas. For those who'd sold their work back home, they assumed this would translate into a business in their new country. Unfortunately Uganda did not have the same tradition and there was less appreciation for the art form. Without a market to sell their wares, many South Sudanese artists stopped making milayas for anything beyond personal use, and instead adapted to what was viable in Uganda.
Sacha
What is the importance of preserving the embroidery technique of the Milaya?
Nina
The embroidery techniques and designs to make South Sudanese milayas are passed down from generation to generation. With the advent of machine embroidery, this heritage risks falling victim to a newer, faster way of production that doesn't offer the same personal touch and creative opportunity as a handmade one. When the artists have full creative control, the patterns they come up with evoke memories of home, along with the history of their nation and their lives, and their dreams for the future.
Sacha
Culture and tradition are largely left out of sustainability discourse, yet they are so vital to an ethical system. What do you think is the importance of artisanship in the fashion system and connecting artisans to both a local and global market?
Nina
It's hugely meaningful for the artisans we work with to discover their work is being appreciated across the globe. When we show them pictures of the beds, couches, and walls their work appears on, there is always laughter and cheering. Artisan work gives the world more texture and diversity—while fast fashion makes us all look a little more the same.
Sacha
What would you say to people who are hesitant to swap a fast fashion purchase (clothing or home textiles) for an artisan-made product, such as those made by The Milaya Project?
Nina
Choosing products from organizations like the Milaya Project is not just a reflection of your style, it's a reflection of your values. We hope that customers understand it costs a little more to create a handmade product and deliver it across the world—but also that the impact of that purchase can transform the lives of those creators.